According to BSS, restoring the lost grandeur of the traditional silk industry may depend on boosting both the farming and industrial sectors and adding vitality to field-level marketing initiatives.
Rajshahi has long been known for its silk, but for many years, for a variety of reasons, its reputation has been in danger of dwindling.
By its very nature, the silk and sericulture industries are family-run, labor-intensive businesses that give rural residents jobs.
Many rural people had got the path of improving their living standard through boosting local silk yarn production.
Once upon a time, most of the villagers were seen farming silkworm sericulture side by side with their regular household activities in Bagha and Charghat upazilas in Rajshahi and Bholahat upazila in Chapainawabganj districts.
The glorious situation can be revived after the best use of existing natural resources. There are enormous scopes of generating employment opportunities along with improving living and livelihood conditions of the marginalized and landless people, particularly women, through engaging them in sericulture.
Rajshahi silk received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2017, legally recognising its unique identity. The Bangladesh Sericulture Development Board (BSDB), based in Rajshahi, is mandated to revive and expand the country’s silk sector.
“We intended to boost the capacity of the targeted people through imparting them with training in different stages of sericulture,” said Shafiqul Islam, Director General (DG) of BSDB, while talking to BSS recently.
Initiatives have been launched to increase the production of mulberry plants and cocoons in the nursery centers in Ishwardi, Rangpur, Comilla, Konabari, and Bogura, in addition to modernizing the sericulture nurseries.In order to produce silk farmers and entrepreneurs, silk production has been extended to 1,100 bigha of land using farming techniques. Additionally, 3,270 farmers are receiving training to produce skilled labor.
Materials for raising silkworms were distributed to about 2,369 silk farmers. Approximately 15 lakh mulberry pants have been made and given to farmers thus far.
In addition to constructing 874 houses for silkworm rearing by farmers, mulberry orchards on 120 bigha of lands are being maintained at present.
They are also planning to meet the country’s demand by enhancing the production of silkworm and raw silk. Initiatives have been taken to expand sericulture through farming methods aimed at increasing silk production on a commercial basis.
At present, more than 4,000 people are involved in silk farming directly in the grassroots in 600 blocks.
“We are extending financial support to all the grassroots farmers through 59 centres,” said DG Shafiqul Islam, adding that there are also arrangements of extending support to those engaged in silk cocoon, yarn and mulberry farming and silk industries besides marketing of silk products.They are encouraging the farmers towards mulberry farming as the main crop with the ultimate goal of boosting silk production. Currently, mulberry plants are being cultivated on homesteads and roadside vacant places.
The multidisciplinary activities provide unique job opportunities to the marginal farmers, landless poor, rural and contribute a lot to poverty reduction, he added.
Nasima Khatun, Director (Production and Marketing) of BSDB, said the prospect of intercropping is very bright to boost additional income from the same land together with silk cocoon production throughout the region.
Intercropping mulberry trees with some other vegetables and spices is being promoted among the farmers aimed at uplifting silk production.
In the absence of appropriate management practices, mulberry agriculture currently depends largely on fallow fields and other roadside mulberry trees.
The results of the research were favorable in terms of achieving food security and producing vegetables, spices, and mulberry leaves.
After extensive research, the Bangladesh Sericulture Research and Training Institute (BSRTI) has developed 20 silkworm and 15 mulberry plant species, she claimed, raising enormous hopes for the revival of the esteemed silk industry.
Silk production will be enhanced by around 12 to 15 percent together with decreasing the dependence on import of silk yarn amid the variety innovation recently. Farmers will also be benefited enormously from the innovation.
Lutfor Rahman Talukder, Chief Planning Officer of BSDB, said the Rajshahi Silk Factory has been re-launched in 2018, weaving clothes in 19 power looms.
Up until April of last year, 53,000 meters of clothing were produced. Approximately Taka 2.5 lakh worth of silk clothing is being offered for sale through the factory showroom.
Local artists weave and design silk fabrics, which are highly sought after in the area. The wealthy often rush to the silk boutiques.
According to Sapura Silk showroom manager Saidur Rahman, muslin katoar shari is the most popular item among customers, with prices ranging from Tk 3,500 to Tk 1,50,000.
He claimed that the showrooms were where children’s outfits, three-pieces, sharis, and punjabees made of silk were put together.
Usha Silk has also brought a new design with stripe which is being sold at Tk 1,900 to Tk 6,500 per piece, sellers said.
Nur Alam Bulbul, showroom in-charge of Usha Silk, said their sharies are being sold at Tk 1,150 to Tk 50,500 and the three-pieces priced at Tk 2,500 to Tk 75,500.
Varieties of silk clothes namely Bolakakar Chupi, Sui-Sutakatan, Kotisilk, Joyashri, Silk Katan, Water Katan, Jamdani Katan, Borkatan, Dupiana, Jhornakatan, shari, three piece, orna, panjabi-pajama, shirt, fatua and scarf are on display in every shop and showroom to attract the buyers.
While middle-class and lower-class consumers are observed haggling with merchants, wealthy purchasers are buying their top pick regardless of price.
The old silk industry still has a reputation and pride across the nation, so revitalizing it could be the key to bringing it back to its former glory, according to Liakat Ali, president of the Bangladesh Silk Industries Owners Association.
Reviving the esteemed sector requires the combined efforts of all relevant authorities because it requires a lot of labor on both the industrial and farming sides.
He said silk is not only pride and heritage for Rajshahi but also throughout the country. Utmost emphasis should be given on making the sector profitable together with sustaining its golden heritage.
Silk represents the entire Rajshahi in both home and abroad.
He also said,” There are around 80 small and medium silk factories in the private sector with a capacity of manufacturing 25.50 million meters of fabrics annually.”
In addition, there are over 10,000 private handlooms that can produce 30 million meters of silk cloth annually. However, the factories rely on yarn that is imported.
The phrase “Rajshahi Silk” describes the premium silk goods that come from the area, which is well-known for its sarees.
The industry depends on skilled people like printers, weavers, and rearers, whose retention is essential to its success.
As a whole, Liakat Ali said the silk sector faces a challenge of balancing consumer demand with a fluctuating supply of quality raw silk yarn, leading to increased prices and potential risks to the sector.
