Daniel Lee, a British designer, unveiled his debut line for Burberry in front of a packed audience late on Monday in London, drawing inspiration from the heritage of the prestigious company.
In light of the resignation of creative director Riccardo Tisci in September, Burberry’s show at London Fashion Week was the most anticipated of the roughly 50 presentations.
Lee, a 37-year-old designer from Bradford in northern England, restored the company’s classics for his debut line. Tisci had generally avoided doing so.
Around 500 guests filled a marquee in Kennington Park, south London, where tea, tartan blankets and hot-water bottles generated an intimate atmosphere.
According to a statement from Burberry, the location was “inspired by Burberry tents from the late 19th and early 20th century,” conjuring “a coziness that provides warmth and protection from the weather.”
Models performed in the setting of a mountain lodge while holding hot water bottles and wearing rubber boots.
Jumpers, trench coats, pants, and skirts all had the brand’s signature checkerboard pattern in a variety of colors. Lee’s home county of Yorkshire and England’s symbol, the rose, was featured on a number of garments.
The famous insignia of the brand was updated on a model’s white, checkered, and blue sweater, which Burberry described as Lee’s “first creative statement.”
The horseman, a symbol of Burberry since the early 20th century, was abandoned by Tisci when he took over the reins in 2018.
After years at Givenchy, the Italian attempted to rejuvenate the ageing image of the London house, founded in 1856.
Unlike his predecessor, Lee presented few extravagant evening outfits, with the exception of two dresses with bare shoulders.
Lee was feted at the end of the show by an audience that included model Naomi Campbell, Vogue magazine doyenne Anna Wintour and British singers Damon Albarn and Stormzy.
Also among the guests were Australian movie director Baz Luhrmann, whose film “Elvis” won four BAFTA awards on Sunday, and Syrian swimmer Yusra Mardini, whose life story has been adapted into a film.
It was Burberry’s first physical show at London Fashion Week since 2019, with the Covid pandemic and Queen Elizabeth II’s death hampering previous plans.
